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1 Ausburg Checks
A cotton fabric, plain weave, woven in check designs in many colours. The term is applied to checks woven in Augsburg, Bavaria, in plain weave. -
2 Border Checks
A term given to cotton checks for West Africa. The borders are of different colour in the warp to the ground. Crude combinations, such as red borders, with blue and yellow stripes in the body, similar to Barawazi checks. Plain weave, fast to washing colours. -
3 District Checks
A term applied to bold distinctive woollen checks made at Inverness, Keith and other districts in Scotland. The patterns were such as shepherd, gun-club, Glenurquhart and others. The original cloth was made of Sutherland cheviot in 2 & 2 twill weave, but woollen blends soon became usual. They were first designed for the big landowners for livery purposes, but later on merchants bought them for general use. -
4 Macana Checks
A plain weave cotton made for South America in small check designs of bright colours; shipped in a soft finish; 26-in. wide, 72 ends and 76 picks per inch, 26's T., 8's W. The warp is woven two ends together. Also made 48 ends and 76 picks per inch, 2/18's T., 8's W., one end in a dent. A home trade cloth sold under this name, also in small checks of bright colours, is made in various widths and qualities, one of which is 29-in. 96 ends and 96 picks per inch, 32's T., 32's W. This is also shipped to China and Egypt. -
5 Satin Checks
Dress fabrics made from cotton or silk with checks of satin weave on a plain ground. The cloth is bleached, dyed or printed. Usually made in light weights. A standard cloth is made 39/40-in. finished with 62 reed, 56 picks per inch, 50's ground warp and weft and 2/100's satin stripe and checking. The satin warp stripes are crammed in the reed, and the weft stripes are also crammed. -
6 Scotch Checks
Plain or twill weave cotton cloths woven in check designs in tartan styles. The weft plan of colour is the same as the warp plan, producing square checks. One cloth is made 28-in. to 36-in. 62 ends and 68 picks per inch, 32's warp, 36's weft. The finish is a soft slightly assisted one. -
7 Sideband Checks
Plain weave all-cotton cloths, made for the West African markets. From 27-in. to 30-in. wide, 27 yards long, about 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 24's warp, 28's weft. Firm finished. The body of the cloth is made in small coloured checks, but there is a broad stripe at each side, usually red. -
8 Bleeding Checks
A plain weave cloth made from coloured yarns in large check designs with a loose dyed yam overchecking. During the finishing process this loose dye bleeds off and tints the fabric (see Madras Handkerchiefs) -
9 China Checks
A plain weave cotton cloth for the China market, woven with indigo blue threads in warp and weft. The cloth is piece-bleached and back filled. Made 28-in. grey, 27-in. finished, 68 X 64 per inch, 36's T./32's W., 30's colour. The designs are small and generally made square as follows: - 2 blue, 8 grey, or 2 blue, 16 grey, in both warp and weft -
10 Dice Checks
Geometrical patterns such as squares and diaper weaves come in this class, and are made by reversing and altering the direction of the weave. -
11 Glen Urquhart Checks
A woollen or worsted cloth, 2 & 2 twill or matt weave. Both warp and weft are coloured, such as 2 dark, 2 light ends, for, say, 24 threads, then 4 dark, 4 light, for another 24 threads. The weft pattern is the same as the warp. The term indicates a style of design rather than a quality and numerous makes are common both in worsteds and woollens.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Glen Urquhart Checks
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12 Harlem Checks
The Dutch term for linen fabrics woven in blue or red check designs, plain weave. -
13 Hausa Checks
An all-colour cotton cloth made for the Hausa natives of Africa. Plain weave; warp pattern, about 10 ends dark indigo, 2 ends light indigo, with weft similar. The yams are hard-twisted, and the weft is sized, which gives a rough, harsh feel to the cloth. Usually made 28-in. wide, 58 ends and 42 picks per inch, 18's dark, 2/80's light indigo warp, 16's dark, 60's light indigo weft. Shipped in the loom state in 10 yard ends. -
14 Pinhead Checks
Small pinhead dots and hairlines produced with alternate ends of blue and white warp and all-blue weft. With the plain weave this gives isolated white dots in straight rows longitudinally and across, and continuous blue lines down and across the fabric. -
15 Shepherd's Checks
These are small check designs usually in black and white, and less often in other contrasting colours. The weave is 2 & 2 twill. Check designs are formed by arranging 2 white, 2 black, for a required number of ends and picks, and then changing to 4 white, 4 black, for a required number. -
16 Tissue Checks
Coloured check fabrics principally shipped to the U.S.A. Plain weave cords appear in most designs and the colour amounts vary from 10 per cent to 20 per cent. A standard quality is 31-in., 120 yards, 68 ends and 56 picks per inch, 40's white warp and weft, 50's colour warp and weft, 2/20's white cords in warp and 20's cords in weft. The cloth had a pure Scotch finish. -
17 Hairline
The true hairline is a colour and weave effect in which fine lines one thread or one pick wide occur lengthwise or crosswise of the fabric. In the plain weave with the warp and weft both arranged one black, one white, alternately, lines can be made to run lengthwise or crosswise. By modifying the weave, checks can be made on the same principle. The worsted hairline is a popular trousering and made in many weights. One quality is 68-in. wide in the loom, 2/26's T., 2/30's W., both worsted. The shrinkage is about 15 per cent (see also Pinhead Checks) -
18 TEFLA
(-da, -dr), v.1) to play at tables, chess, draughts, etc. (sumir tefldu skáktafl eða hneftafl eða kvátru);2) tefla í uppnám, to expose the pieces, so that they can be taken (vildi S. bera aptr riddara, er hann hafði teflt í uppnám);3) tefla e-n upp, to beat one in a game of draughts, fig. to deprive one of what one has;4) to weave checks.* * *d, [tafl], to play at tables or draughts; tefldu í túni teitir vóru, Vsp., Hkr. iii. 320; menn skolu ok eigi t. svá at þeir leggi fé við, Grág. ii. 198; konungr sat ok teflði hnettafl, Fms. vi. 29; sumir tefldu skáktafl eða hnettafl eða kvátru, Konr.; tveir menn vóru á heystáli ok tefldu, brann þar ljós, Ísl. ii. 69; t. kvátru, Sturl. ii. 184; þá skildi á um tafl, vildi Sámr bera aptr riddara er hann hafði telft í uppnám, iii. 123: metaph. in the phrase, t. e-n upp, to take one up, beat in a game of draughts; þann veg máttú mér mest upp tefla, Ld. 42; hann hefir ykkr upp teflt um fjárreiður, Bjarn. 40; ekr hart at mönnum ok eru margir þá upp tefldir, Ísl. ii. 132; en sá er tefldr verðr til eyris, gjaldi konungi tólf aura, ok svá sá er af honum teflir, Js. 128.2. the word is also used of dice; the early passion of the Teutons for the dice is attested by Tacit. Germ. ch. 24, cp. the story in Magn. S. ch. 49 (Orkn. 200 referring to England), as also the Icel. phrase, um lífið er að tefla, life is on the die, metaph. of a great emergency.II. to weave checks (= byrða borða), of ladies’ work; hón saumaði, teflði, eða vann aðrar hannyrðir, Bs. i. 341. -
19 Augsburg
A cotton fabric, plain weave, woven in check designs in many colours. The term is applied to checks woven in Augsburg, Bavaria, in plain weave. -
20 Barawazi
An all-cotton cloth, plain weave, woven in contrasting colours in warp and weft as checks. Dark blue, yellow and red are the favourite colours, and the border is always of a different colour to the centre. Shipped to East Africa (see border checks for West Africa). Usually coarse counts, such as 24's warp and 16's weft, 64 X 60 per inch.
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